Thursday, August 12, 2010

Austrian Wine 101

by Maggie Bernat Smith

Austria is a country with some of the most exciting white wines around; of course if you've come across them at a wine shop or on a wine list anywhere, you may have avoided them due to the strange grape varietal names or assumed that Austria being next to Germany that they were probably sweet. Within the wine world we know these grapes very well and once you try Austria's Gruner Veltliners you're surely hooked. Gruner Veltliner is Austria's premier grape variety. It's the most planted grape in the country and not grown anywhere else in the world. Gruner Veltliner is a perfect food pairing wine, it's crisp, clean, fresh and delicious. It has very subtle flavors of green apple, citrus, its signature white pepper note, and a never-ending minerality that dances gracefully across your palate. It pairs particularly well with Sushi and also with starters and veggies (which are particularly difficult to pair).

Another misconception about Austria is their Rieslings. Their Rieslings are bone dry, mineral-laden, wines that truly express the soil from which they're grown. They have such subtle complexities with their whispers of peach, flowers and citrus; and with its high acidity, are very racy wines. They are built to last so you can age them for a long time and will just get better and better. Their white wines in general are not cheap (although you can find cheapish options) they are high quality wines and their prices tend to match.

The reds are not as ubiquitous as the whites are but still carry on the tradition of "unique" grape varietals. The red varietal that is most widely planted over yonder is a grape called Zweigelt. This fun-loving grape has a bright and vivid red fruit flavor profile with often exotic spices. They have a world-wide appeal of oak aging and are perfect in the summer since it's light to medium in body. If you tend to like Chianti or earthier Pinot Noirs, chances are you'll dig on Zweigelt's swagger.

Austria has always been famous for producing their late-harvest dessert wines made from either botrytised (a "noble rot" that shrivels grapes and concentrates flavors with often a honeyed or apricot creme brulee character to them) or late harvest grapes. They are similar to Bordeaux's Sauternes and taste like liquid heaven. Try them with foie gras or with after dinner with a delicious cheesecake.

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